Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. Be sure to use the stitch indicated in the pattern when it tells you how gauge was measured. God Bless. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. Worsted is used to describe the thickness of a yarn (worsted weight), one way fibers are aligned before becoming yarn (worsted preparation), and how twist enters fiber to become yarn (worsted drafting). My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of . That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. Thank you for this insightful article. Best article Ive read on this subject, and Ive been looking for a clear one for about a year. Sometimes, even after all that, you still might not be sure whether the yarn you want to substitute will work for your project, check out other peoples projects. Spun/plied 10:1. It will stay in my notebook in my knitting bag. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. After picking, the fiber goes through acarder, a machine with several rolling cylinders covered in metal teeth. Fabrics created with worsted spun yarns, on the other hand, will generally have better drape, smoothness, and stitch definition. So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! August 2022 Once its dry, use a measuring tape to determine how many stitches and rows you have in a 4 square area. Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. They are the same weight and have the same number of plies. The fibers are carded, or brushed, in a single direction and then tightly spun together, resulting in a yarn that is smooth and has a consistent thickness. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). It also means woolen-spun yarns are warmer than their worsted counterparts as these air pockets help hold body heat. But not always. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Nature Spun Worsted. It does not store any personal data. Required fields are marked *. Worsted wool can be made up into many different cloths, which may be appropriate for suits, jacket and/or trousers. Thank you for helping me understand these yarn differencesthis will help me understand why one yarn will make me swoon, and another yarn, totally different, really makes my knees weak. Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. I am currently knitting with Empire and wondered what made me love it so much more than (another lovely but unnamed) yarn of the same gauge. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. Your email address will not be published. Bees I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. Yarn and fiber folks have an extensive vocabulary for many things, but we are really stuck on the word worsted. February 2019 With your information I can now choose wisely, thus ensuring my yarn/pattern will be completed. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Rhinebeck The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. Module 1 Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. Ah, you're right, thank you! The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. December 2019 When I first started knitting, I bought a Debbie Bliss magazine that had this adorable, lightweight top for summer. Woolen-spun yarns have a matte finish with a soft halo and lend themselves well to extra-warm projects that wont weigh you downperfect for camping trips! That, in turn, means youll have more trouble knitting a garment that will fit you right. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Classically speaking there are 2 types of yarn. It makes yarn that is lofty and irregular. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. January 2021 This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. That is woolen drafting. I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. The weight makes it great for outerwear, and the texture and structure allow for beautiful felted work. To really make sure you stand the best chance of getting the right gauge, you need to check your new yarns put up and/or WPI. Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. Thank you! Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. Stitch definition. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. February 2020 August 2018 . I'm glad to hear you found it useful. Miss Babs has an orderly line. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Perfect. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. Time to read it again, more closely! Oh thats right! Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. Finally I understand I sorta knew but didnt quite fit it into certain yarns I was knitting on, I always wondered . This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. I hope this will help you skip some of the hiccups! Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. Thank you so much Katie. Woolen yarns are good for products like tweeds, while worsted yarns are best for smooth fine gaberdines. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. August 2016 Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. Top: Worsted spun shows more stitch definition Bottom: Woolen spun soft bouncy yarn without stitch definition Like cousins, woolen and worsted yarns have the same genetic profile, but look and act completely different from one another. Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. March 2016 You can see her producing rolags, and then using a navajo spindle to do a form of long draw. Spun In Maine. This is a new day for me. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. Thedoffer, a large cylinder at the delivery end of the carder, then relays the batt into acondenser, which splits the batt into several thin, untwisted strands calledropingorslivers(sly-vers). September 2020 Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. When prepared in a worsted-style, the fibers also tend to spin up more tightly, resulting in greater tensile strength and resistance to abrasion. May 2014 Then you compare that to the ratio of another yarn with a similar fiber content. In the woolen system, the fibers are carded and then spun It affects the processing efficiency as well as the quality of the product.This presentation has focused on wool spinning particularly woolen & worsted spinning process. I am going to print this and use it, because this made me feel empowered by actual knowledge - my yarn purchases may take a bit longer as I review all of the yarns characteristics, but I have a much better sense of what I am doing! However, though the staple length of the wool is short the yarn is strong over the length of a single knit or purl stitch, so the fabric worked in these yarns will be cohesive and strong. I choose to support local and indie yarners and dont mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. However, roping is more commonly used to refer specifically to this stage inwoolen-spinning mills. If your gauge is too loose (that is, fewer stitches per inch than it should have), try going down a needle size. This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. These cookies do not store any personal information. The worsted spinning method creates yarns that are smooth and durable, with superior stitch definition. All Rights Reserved. They are both delightful, yet different. I said Thank You as soon as I read the title. October 2021 I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. What a great article. Woolen and worsted are two different classifications of wool fabrics and yarn. Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. . Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Goodness, though, was it ever the wrong choice for this one. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge, Shoes for Showing Off Handknit Socks: Six Suggestions. In most cases, semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns could often be confused for the same thing. It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. July 2013 This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. The squeeze of drafting a yarn worsted brings fibers closer, for greater depth of color, and the smoothness of the surface reflects light, intensifying the color and shine. And I also now understand my past failures a little better haha! I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. Woolen yarns are generally the least expensive industrial yarns to make. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Holland & Sherry98% SUPER 100'S WORSTED 2% LYCRA 2.46 YDS X 62" 159648 at the best online prices at eBay! Woolen yarns have variable fiber arrangement In woolen spun yarns the fibers are running in multiple directions, like a cloud. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. Going to send people to this. Spinningwithapurpose Thank you!!!! Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. June 2019 I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. September 2014 Its like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. You also need to consider WPI. Drafting is the process of adding twist to fiber, and of course it has an effect on your knitting. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. WPI is a way to measure the thickness of yarn. Well it's all a matter of different fibre preparations, and different spinning techniques. Jill, I am a newbie to crochet and knitting, so this information is wonderful! An alternative to spinning top worsted is to spin it semi worsted. February 2018 Brilliant exposition, Katie! This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. Compared to woolens, worsted wool fabrics are brushed in two directions with special brushes. Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Lets use the Profiterole Hat for an example again. January 2023 Woolen yarn consists of fibers of varying length that are carded so the fibers are not parallel. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. Im trying to educate myself on the different weights of yarn and could only find worsted listed as a weight. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. Spin: Worsted or Woolen How a yarn is spun affects a yarn's weight and crimp. Multiply that over the many inches of a knitted item, and well, you can see how subbing in a yarn with a WPI of 12 for a yarn with a WPI of 18 could be a bit of an issue. Very good, educational description. Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. All Rights Reserved. Shelter is textured, and Arbor is smooth as silk. (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. In my spinning past, I've spun from locks, from picked fiber 'clouds' , from bats, had also tried a badly produced rolag or two and gave up ~~ but mostly all the years I've spun its been from roving, sliver, and combed top. The worsted will tend to emphasize the gaps between the colours. Safe home and already knitting a scarf . Most people define semi-worsted as spinning worsted using carded fibers while spinning the way you would for worsted yarn. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Loft, Quarry, and Shelter (shown above, top to bottom) appear wispy and how the fibers in each single are oriented in every direction and nestled together in a disorderly manner. The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. Thank you for there explanation. This blooming also has the effect of softening and blending the appearance of your stitches rather like moss growing on a forest floor, in the words of Clara Parkes. February 2016 February 2023 This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? The unique 12-ply construction means that garments drape beautifully and afghans and warm weather accessories have a cushiony soft bounce. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Arbor and Vale (shown above, top to bottom) appear more compacted and how the fibers in each single are oriented in the same direction. May 2013, All Worsted Spun requires a very different fibre preparation, and spinning technique. Ill explain what these things are, first, and then talk about why theyre so important. This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. July 2017 Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. Ill jump right in with the big one. Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. To check your gauge, cast on 5-10 stitches more than what the pattern says will give you 4. Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. Countryside They are: Woolen and Worsted. We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. 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June 2022 Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. November 2022 If you're looking for something that's super warm but light, a woolen spun may be better. Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. Thank for for such a coherent explanation (and the pretty swatches really help too)! Between those extremes, you can make infinite yarn combining elements from along the woolen/worsted continuum. Great article! Very clear explanation of a new topic to me. But it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the swatch in my hand. www.brooklyntweed.com, Content: 100% Clun Forest wool Put-Up: 185yd [169 m]/3.8 oz [107 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash with low agitation; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 18 sts = 4 (10 cm) on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, Solitude Wool hand-picks its fleece from small U.S. farms and then has yarn spun at different mills around the country. June 2020 Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. April 2019 The type of yarns also depends on how they spun. The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. . June 2013 This is why many stranded colorwork knitters prefer to use woolen-spun yarns; because of their bloom, different colors end up blending together at the edges for a painterly effect. I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. These carded strands are lofty, lightweight, and trap a lot of air. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. Very well spot on! worsted-spun. This video is a brief overview of some different spinning techniques I've learned to spin worsted or woolen yarn and how that affects the outcome of your yar. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". October 2015 The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. November 2014 Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. Jo, You have a real gift. Generally speaking, plant-based materials will be heavier than animal fibers. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Rudy Amann was mentored in handspinning by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts. A fluffy woolen wool blanket Worsted wools are better at keeping out the wind and rain, but woolen wools are warmer, because they are full of air which acts as insulation. November 2021 So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. I couldnt find it and couldnt afford it on my student budget, anyway, so I decided to substitute. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. If you are unsure or curious about the outcome of a particular stitch pattern, swatch it. Your email address will not be published. I really appreciate you using Tom Hardy as an analogy. Interesting point I would like to know that too! Each of those packages generally indicates two key details: how many yards or meters are in the unit of yarn, and how much that unit of yarn weighs. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between. Great visuals and explanations. December 2014 Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. In this photo below you can see the 1ply Supreme (worsted) on the left has more of a halo whereas the 1ply Cobweb (woollen) on the right has better stitch definition - it almost feels like cotton although it is 100% wool. October 2013 March 2021 You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Worsted spun yarns are used in preparation of suits, dresses, crepes. September 2015 You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? Copyright 2014-2023. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Long draw is for making a woolen-spun yarn. Because the fibers are parallel, worsted spun yarns are denser and less airy than woolen spun. However, because commercial spinning techniques necessarily developed out of hand spinning techniques, the terms described here may also be familiar to our hand spinning friends or applicable to those interested in handspinning. One of the most basic attributes of a yarn is woolen or worsted spun. June 2021 Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed.
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